Semua mata tertuju ke Jakarta setelah tahun 1949. Begitu tahta ibukota berpindah kembali dari Yogyakarta ke Jakarta, fenomena urbanisasi di kota itu dimulai.

Perlahan, dari waktu ke waktu, Jakarta semakin dipenuhi penduduk. Faktor urbanisasi menjadi penyebabnya. Urbanisasi, menurut Ensiklopedi Nasional Indonesia, adalah proses kenaikan proporsi jumlah penduduk yang tinggal di perkotaan. Di satu sisi, hal ini mengubah bentuk fisik kota dan komposisi social ekonomi penduduknya. Di sisi lain, memberikan kesan kota urban tersebut sebagai kota yang menarik oleh kaum pendatang (Fitri Ramdhani Harahap, Jurnal Society, Vol. 1, No. 1, 2013).

Sejak kembali menjadi ibukota, Jakarta menjadi pusat politik dan ekonomi nasional. Sehingga, segala pusat kebijakan berasal dari pemerintah pusat berawal dari Jakarta. Kota ini menjadi penentu bagi berkembangnya Indonesia saat itu.

Perubahan komposisi penduduk Jakarta akibat urbanisasi terjadi dari hitungan statistik. Tahun 1950, tercatat bahwa penduduk Jakarta berjumlah 1,6 juta jiwa. Satu dasawarsa kemudian, jumlah penduduk bertambah menjadi 2,9 juta jiwa.

Penduduk terus bertambah pada tahun 1971 sebesar 4,5 juta jiwa; 6,5 juta jiwa tahun 1980; dan 8,2 juta jiwa pada tahun 1990. Tahun 2021, jumlah penduduk Jakarta bahkan mencapai 10,5 juta jiwa.

Berdasarkan paparan itu, bisa dikatakan bahwa peningkatan jumlah penduduk Jakarta sangat signifikan. Selama satu dasawarsa, sejak 1950 hingga 1960, terdapat peningkatan sebesar 81,25 persen, hampir dua kali lipatnya. Jika dibandingkan tahun 2021, peningkatannya sebesar 556,25 persen, hampir enam kali lipatnya sejak tahun 1950.

Selama tujuh dasawarsa sejak tahun 1950, setidaknya terdapat peningkatan jumlah penduduk Jakarta sebanyak lima kali lipat.

Sebagai perbandingan dalam skala nasional, jumlah penduduk Indonesia pada tahun 1950 sejumlah 77,2 juta jiwa. Tahun 2021, jumlah penduduk Indonesia sejumlah 276,4 juta jiwa. Jika dihitung perbandingan sejak tahun 1950 hingga 2021, terdapat peningkatan jumlah penduduk Indonesia setidaknya sebesar 258 persen atau mengalami peningkatan 3,5 kali lipat selama tujuh dasawarsa.

Jika pertambahan jumlah penduduk Jakarta dibandingkan dengan jumlah penduduk di Indonesia, melalui tahun yang sama, persentase jumlah peningkatan penduduk Jakarta bahkan mampu melampaui peningkatan jumlah penduduk di Indonesia.

Percepatan dalam peningkatan jumlah penduduk tersebut hampir dua kali lipat selama tujuh dasawarsa. Fenomena ini penting untuk disorot jika dilihat dari besaran peningkatan penduduknya.

Daya Tarik

Apa yang menarik dari fenomena urbanisasi tersebut? Keberadaan urbanisasi memberikan perubahan di Jakarta. Sejarah mencatat beberapa pandangan terkait hal ini.

Pertama, euphoria nasionalisme.

Setelah Jakarta dijadikan ibukota kembali, ibukota baru ini menawarkan hal yang menjanjikan bahwa kemerdekaan akan mendatangkan kemakmuran. Banyak penduduk dari wilayah Jawa maupun luar Jawa berdatangan untuk mengharapkan hal demikian.

Kedua, menghindari konflik di pedesaan.

Banyak penduduk desa yang menuju kota untuk menghindari konflik atau kerusuhan di pedesaan. Di beberapa daerah, muncul konflik bersenjata yang dianggap sebagai pemberontakan.

Misalnya di Jawa Barat, muncul Darul Islam yang dianggap Pemerintah Pusat sebagai ancaman negara. Pemimpin Darul Islam, Kartosuwiryo, menentang pemerintah pusat yang dianggap berpandangan sekuler. Akibatnya, para penduduk desa bermigrasi ke Jakarta karena merasa tidak aman dan ketakutan.

Ketiga, Jakarta dianggap lebih berprospek dibanding desa-desa.

Ketika terjadi kemandekan ekonomi tahun 50’ hingga 60-an, kondisi pedesaan terkena dampaknya. Kemiskinan di pedasaan berkorelasi tinggi dengan penguasaan lahan pertanian. Semakin miskin penduduk, semakin mereka tak punya lahan pertanian untuk digarap. Sementara, para penduduk desa membutuhkan lahan untuk memenuhi kebutuhannya.

Catatan sejarah menyebut hampir 60 persen penduduk di pedesaan Jawa tidak memiliki lahan, sedangkan rata-rata luas pemilikan lahan hanya 0,62 hektar, menurut sensus pertanian 1973 (Rahadian Ranakamuksa Candiwidoro, Jurnal Pemikiran Sosiologi, Vol. 4, No. 1, 2017).

Di sisi lain, pembangunan di Jakarta begitu semarak. Tahun 60-an, Sukarno mencanangkan politik mercusuar yang berujung pada pembangunan besar-besaran di Jakarta. Beberapa bangunan besar itu antara lain Stadion Gelora Bung Karno, Gedung Conefo, Monumen Nasional, dan Sarinah.

Beragam pembangunan mercusuar itu menarik perhatian penduduk luar Jakarta untuk datang ke ibukota. Hal ini menjadi faktor penarik bagi calon kaum urban untuk memperoleh kehidupan yang lebih makmur.

Budaya Luar

Kedatangan penduduk ke Jakarta secara berbondong-bondong mengakibatkan masuknya budaya baru di ibukota.

Karena urbanisasi, komposisi penduduk Jakarta menjadi semakin beragam dari berbagai macam latar belakang. Bahkan, mampu menyingkirkan dominasi kaum Betawi, penduduk asli Jakarta.

Hal ini bisa dilihat dari sensus pada tahun 1961. Komposisi penduduk Jakarta saat itu justru didominasi oleh penduduk beretnis Sunda sebesar 32,8 persen; disusul Jawa dan Madura sebesar 25,4 persen; baru kaum Betawi sebesar 22,9 persen.

Sisanya, terdapat penduduk beretnis Cina sebesar 10,3 persen; Minangkabau sebesar 2,1 persen; Sumatera Selatan sebesar 1,2 persen; serta etnis Batak, Sulawesi Utara, Maluku-Papua, Aceh, Banjar, Nusa Tenggara Timur, Bali, dan non pribumi yang berada di kisaran 1 persen ke bawah dari total penduduk Jakarta yang sejumlah 2,9 juta jiwa.

Masuknya budaya baru mempengaruhi banyak hal, salah satunya kuliner. Sejak makin beragamnya penduduk Jakarta, rentetan dagangan kuliner juga semakin bervariasi.

Dalam buku Kuliner Jakarta di Antara “Warteg” terbitan Kompas, dipaparkan bahwa makanan di Jakarta tak melulu makanan Betawi.

Ketika pembangunan Jakarta tahun 60-an melibatkan buruh-buruh dari Tegal, kuliner Tegal mulai masuk ke Jakarta melalui munculnya banyak warung tegal hingga saat ini. Tak hanya itu, komunitas Batak juga membuat lapo tuak di wilayahnya.

Beragam kuliner lain kemudian bermunculan di Jakarta mewakili daerah masing-masing. Mulai dari nasi padang, pecel lele, sate madura, coto makassar, soto banjar, bahkan papeda-ikan kuning papua juga ada.

kuliner Jakarta kerak telor

Pada akhir tahun 70-an hingga tahun 80-an, makanan barat tidak mau ketinggalan. Mulai dari pizza, burger, ayam goreng, hingga donat, makanan-makanan itu mulai menjamur di Jakarta. Tahun-tahun belakangan, makanan Jepang dan Korea juga merangsek ke Jakarta. Bahkan, restoran yang menjual masakan Korea Utara pun ada, tepatnya di Restoran Pyongyang, Jalan Gandaria 58.

Makanan-makanan itu bersaing dengan makanan Betawi. Makanan Betawi kini bahkan turut ekspansif, masuk ke mal-mal mewah seperti Gandaria City, Senayan City, Mal Kelapa Gading, Grand Indonesia, dan Pacific Place.

Walau sudah ekspansif, beberapa makanan khas Betawi tetap saja tersingkir dan sebagian tradisi budaya makanan Betawi pudar karena persaingan. Seperti misalnya, makanan Betawi gabus pucung yang berbahan dasar ikan gabus sudah mulai tidak ada. 

Faktor ini disebabkan karena semakin banyak masyarakat Betawi yang berpindah dari Jakarta ke wilayah penyangga Jakarta seperti Depok, Bogor, Bekasi, dan Tangerang. Selain itu, faktor pembangunan yang banyak memakan lahan tanah dan rawa juga yang membuat makanan kehilangan ikan yang digunakan sebagai bahan baku makanan. 

Keadaan ini menyebabkan turut hilangnya pula beberapa makanan khas Betawi beserta budayanya. Maka tak heran, pada masa kini, kita seringkali melihat ondel-ondel di wilayah pinggiran Jakarta yang dimainkan anak-anak jalanan. Ondel-ondel tersebut turut serta tersingkir dari Jakarta, bersamaan dengan beberapa kuliner Betawi, karena fenomena migrasi kaum Betawi.

Persaingan makanan karena di dunia kuliner Jakarta menciptakan kesetaraan daam mengonsumsi makanan. Tak jarang, makanan-makanan impor pun juga turun kelas menjadi makanan jalanan karena persaingan kuliner tersebut.

Seperti misalnya, makanan Korea yang biasa dijual mahal di restoran khusus Korea pun dijual di pinggir jalan dengan harga yang murah dan merakyat. Tetapi, terlepas dari persaingan makanan karena fenomena urbanisasi itu, keberagaman kuliner tersebut semakin menunjukkan Jakarta sebagai melting pot.

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